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Physical simulation of resonant wave run-up on a beach

Nonlinear wave run-up on the beach caused by harmonic wave maker located at some distance from the shore line is studied experimentally. It is revealed that under certain wave excitation frequencies a significant increase in run-up amplification is observed. It is found that this amplification is due to the excitation of resonant mode in the region between the shoreline and wave maker. Frequency and magnitude of the maximum amplification are in good correlation with the numerical calculation results represented in the paper (T.S. Stefanakis et al. PRL (2011)). These effects are very important for understanding the nature of rougue waves in the coastle zone.

preprint2012arXivOpen access
Alexander EzerskyNizar AbchaEfim Pelinovsky
nlin.PSphysics.ao-ph
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Alexander EzerskyNizar AbchaEfim Pelinovsky

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